Redundancy

I’ve mentioned this many times on this site. I think that it’s advisable to implement layers of security. In the case of restricting access to a one-ton+ automobile, this can be of vital importance. don’t be afraid of being redundant.

So, for instance, I reinforced the lock on the door from our house to the garage. (See the what I believe to be the essential “Guardian” lock, HERE.) I made sure that the automatic garage door was itself lockable. I tried to control access to the car keys. But, if all of those layers fail, I still wanted to try to ensure that the vehicle was inoperable.

In this context, when we’re actually talking about trying to make a vehicle “inoperable,” we mean something very specific.

I do not mean that the car would be completely undriveable. We could accomplish that by removing all four tires, for example.

No, we want the vehicle available to an authorized driver. But we also want to make it difficult or impractical (if not quite “impossible”) for an Alzheimer’s-afflicted person to abscond with the car.

I have three main suggestions, in no particular order.

3 Car-Disabling Suggestions

  1. Car Alarm — An aftermarket or a factory car alarm could suffice for the required purpose. Many vehicle alarms include a “starter-kill” feature. Technically, this is just a relay that disables the vehicle’s starter wire when the alarm is armed. Normally, the envisioned application is theft prevention. However, it is potentially an effective means of stopping mom or grandpa from getting behind the wheel. Although it is typically possible to disarm an alarm system with the vehicle’s key and the alarm’s “valet” switch, the usual method of operation is using the alarm remote (or transmitter). Part of the success of an alarm system for this application will be controlling access to this remote.Alarm-system Pros: Properly installed, an alarm’s starter disabling is effective. The alarm’s siren can alert family members or caretakers to the fact that your loved one is trying to access the car. The alarm system can be used for general, theft-prevention purposes besides simply restricting your loved one’s access to the car.Cons: Car-alarm systems can be (comparative;y) expensive. Due partly to an alarm system’s complexity, it is highly advisable to have it professionally installed, which also costs money. (Vehicles today are highly complicated and computerized. Trying to install an alarm system yourself without proper tools and training can lead to damage to the car.)

    A bare-bones alarm system can probably do the necessary job. A quick scan of the landscape reveals the Prestige APS25E, by Audiovox. (You can take a look at the current price, HERE.) That said, however, if you’re going to spring for a car alarm installation, you’ll likely pay a similar fee regardless of whether the unit runs $50 or $150. (If you want multiple remote-control “channels” rigged to do more “exotic” things — like roll up windows — then it’ll run you a little more.) So, you might consider getting a unit that does a bit more than just interrupt the starter and supply a “shock” sensor to guard against brute-force entry attacks.Once upon a time, I worked as an installer of aftermarket car-stereo and security products. From that time onward, I became partial to Directed Electronics, Incorporated’s (DEI) “Viper” lineup. As I glance over DEI’s current offerings for units that include the (fairly standard) “starter-kill” relay, this one jumps out: The Viper 3305V. (Click HERE to check it’s price on Amazon.) But if you want to protect your loved one from being able to start the car and remain on the cheap, then read on.

  2. Use the Vehicle’s Security Circuitry — This is a bit more of an exotic workaround than it is a product-based recommendation. But I thought that I would include it on the chances that a reader has the technical know-how to implement it or that he or she knows someone else who does. You could possibly approach a professional car-alarm installer. But since the idea is unorthodox, I cannot promise that the person would be willing to tackle the job.The systems — generically referred to as “immobilizers” or “transponders” — basically begin with keys that a variously “programmed” or wired to present access codes or electronic “signatures” to the car’s computer. These technologies continue to evolve. But there are versions available from most car makers, including Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle (Sentry Key), Ford/Lincoln/Mercury (Passive Anti-Theft System [PATS]; Securilock), General Motors — including Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC, and Oldsmobile — (PassKey; PassLock; Vehicle Anti-Theft System [VATS]), Honda/Acura (immobilizer), Mazda (immobilizer); Nissan/Infinity (immobilizer); Toyota/Lexus (immobilizer); etc. (This is by no means a complete list.)The basic idea is this. Many (though not all) recently manufactured cars have security features that prevent the vehicle from being started without an authorized key. If the car detects the correct signature, then the vehicle is permitted to start. If not, the car either does nothing or else it goes into a “lock-down” state. So, the workaround is this. If you can unplug or otherwise interrupt the immobilizer/transponder circuit, the vehicle’s electronic-control unit (ECU) or specialized computer will interpret any attempt to start the car as an unauthorized attempt.

    Sometimes the immobilizer wires are part of the main ignition bundle and sometimes they are separate. The main ignition wires are comparatively larger gauge because they have to carry much higher current. Now, I am not suggesting that you just go around unplugging wire harnesses in your car. But theoretically it is possible to locate the correct device and to unplug it. Though, you probably want to consult with a professional. Bear in mind that the harness will have to be plugged back in before any authorized user attempts to start the car. Also, it is possible that particular vehicles might interpret the unplugging (or unauthorized starting) as a theft attempt and then initiate some further “lock-down” sequence which would then need to be reversed before using the vehicle.

    Pros: This workaround does not require the purchase of any additional hardware. On suitably equipped vehicles, you would simply be utilizing the factory hardware for a non-standard purpose.

    Cons: You’ll want to know exactly what you are doing and what the consequences might be. If you don’t know this, then you’ll need to involve a professional. Opinions from experts are usually not free. Therefore, you may have to pay an installer (or possibly an informed mechanic) to advise you on the options for your (or your loved one’s) car. Once implemented — either via harness disconnection or interrupt-switch installation — you’ll have to remember to reverse the security condition when you need to use the car.

  3. Car Battery-Disconnect Switch — A third access-control method is to install a switch at the battery, under the car’s hood. In this case, to operate the vehicle, a driver would have to pop the hood, throw the switch to the “on” position, close the hood, and then start the car normally with the key. When an authorized driver is finished with the car, he or she would again pop the hood, switch the battery “off,” and then shut the hood.

    Pros: The switch will cut off power to the car’s ignition — as well as to every other system. This sort of switch is less expensive and easier to install than a full alarm system. However, to prevent arcing and other electrical problems, if you choose to tackle the procedure yourself, you should have some idea about what you’re doing.

    Cons: Firstly, you really have to have some familiarity with basic tools — like ratchet sets, specialty battery wrenches, and regular wrenches. Secondly, since the cut-off switch is located under the hood; and since you’re likely to leave the switch in the open position so that your Alzheimer’s-afflicted love one cannot abscond with the car; you’re faced with the prospect of having to open the hood in order to close the switch to allow for vehicle operation.

    Disconnect switches should be matched to the sort of posts that you have on your car battery. The two main varieties are side-post batteries and top-post batteries. For side posts, you can go with something such as Dewhel’s cutoff switch. (Click HERE for Amazon pricing and availability.) For top posters, GAMA Electronics makes a switch that fits the bill. (Again, last I checked, this switch was available on Amazon. See it for yourself, HERE.)

Further Suggestions

Key Lock Box — Another suggestion would be to control the vehicle’s keys. I go into greater depth on this solution on the companion page “Key-Controlling Devices.” But, again — and at the risk of sounding redundant — I would say that the name of the game is redundancy!

A final consideration would be to obtain a lock for the garage door. Even here, there are several possibilities. One possibility would be to ensure that you have a sophisticated enough garage-door opener that your love done wouldn’t be able to get the car out without authorization. Of course, a system like this would run several hundred dollars — without factoring in installation costs.

But, even with a good opening system, I’d still recommend a backup device. For me, the following worked well.

Simple garage-door lock — The least expensive option would be to obtain a sliding lock. This sort of lock is operated manually from inside of the garage. It serves two functions. The first is to prevent intruders from raising the garage door. If installed correctly, the sliding lock is able to perform this function with no additional hardware. The second function is to prevent your loved one from opening the garage in order to remove the vehicle. For this function, it would be best to couple the sliding lock with a padlock. The padlock affixes through an appropriately sized hole on the lock slide. With the padlock in place, it is not possible to simply slide the lock into an “open” position. A person must first unlock and remove the padlock.

This sort of lock only runs a few dollars. (Check the current price on Amazon HERE.) Like other hardware on this list, however, it has to be installed before it can be useful.

For monitoring and tracking purposes, it may also be helpful to have a sensor installed on the garage door to alert you to when it has been opened. If you already have a security system, most likely this would not be a difficult item for a professional to add. If you do not currently have a security system, then you would have to get one before this would be an option. The security system would give you the benefit of being able to better keep tabs on your loved one remotely. But it is no substitute for thorough access- and key-control measures.

(For more on this, see my Monitor and Sensor recommendations.)